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Poltava Governorate Zemstvo Building

architectureart-nouveauukrainemuseums
4 min read

The foundations were already in the ground when the artists staged their revolt. Around 1902, a government building for the Poltava regional council was to be raised in the safe, imperial manner, Renaissance Revival or Neoclassicism, the architecture of officialdom everywhere. But a circle of painters and architects meeting in the city to discuss reviving folk crafts refused to let that happen. They wanted a building that looked like it belonged to Ukraine, not to any provincial capital of the empire. Out of that argument came something genuinely new: raised between 1903 and 1908 to the design of Vasyl Krychevsky, the Zemstvo Building is regarded as the first example of Ukrainian Art Nouveau, a whole architectural language announced by a single structure.

A Design Worth Fighting Over

The building's story is really an argument caught in stone and ceramic. At meetings on folk crafts in 1902 and early 1903, the artist Serhii Vasylkivsky attacked the original design by the architect Shirshov. When the plans were reworked but still felt like standard government fare, the reformers pushed for something rooted in local folk forms, and the writer among them proposed a name for what they were after: the Ukrainian style. Opanas Slastion took the case to the newspapers of Poltava and then Kyiv. Two competitions followed in June 1903, and a commission led by Fedir Lyzohub weighed eight proposals before settling on Krychevsky's. Because the foundations had already been poured that spring, Krychevsky had to redesign a building that was, in a sense, already being built beneath him. Folk ceramics from the nearby village of Opishnia gave him his palette.

A Roof That Changes With the Sky

What Krychevsky produced is unapologetically expressive. Two tall, slender towers with folded tent roofs flank a central mass that pushes forward in three parts. A high base of roughly hewn pink granite anchors the walls, which are faced in light yellow ceramics and banded with orange, ornamented with motifs Krychevsky drew from folk art, trees of life, stylized flowerpots spreading their branches across the plaster. Above the main portal, coats of arms of the governorate's towns sit among painted flags and blue-and-white twisted columns. Crowning it all is a roof of greenish-blue glazed tiles, laid in a mosaic so that its color shifts with the weather and the angle of the sun. It is a building designed to look different depending on when you stand before it.

The Painted Hall

Inside, the drama continues. A wide marble staircase splits in two directions beneath a glass ceiling that floods the central hall with light, ringed by blue-and-white columns wound with ornament. The main meeting hall was the showpiece: floral decoration from sketches by Mykola Samokysh, and three large narrative paintings by Vasylkivsky, aided by Mykola Uvarov and Mykhaylo Berkos. Each told a story the region wanted to tell about itself. One depicted the election of a Poltava colonel, celebrating democratic choice; another, a Cossack facing a Tatar, honored the defense of the land; the third, the Romodan trade road, portrayed commerce and enterprise. Together they turned a council chamber into a statement of local identity and pride.

Twice Burned, Twice Restored

The building served as administration and museum until 1920, when it became a Soviet proletariat museum. In 1943, as the Nazis retreated from Poltava, they burned it. Reconstruction in the 1950s brought it back largely to its original form, though the roof and the murals of the main hall were altered. Today it houses the Poltava Museum of Local Lore, and since 2021 it has again been under restoration, the latest chapter in a long effort to preserve a landmark that did more than shelter a regional government. It launched a national style, and it has needed rescuing more than once to keep that beginning visible.

From the Air

The Zemstvo Building stands in central Poltava at about 49.58°N, 34.56°E. From roughly 3,000 to 6,000 feet its two slender towers and the distinctive blue-green glazed roof stand out among the surrounding city blocks, with the Vorskla River valley to the east. Poltava International Airport (UKHP) lies just west of the city center.

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